My theory is that the whole "when in Rome" concept works a bit differently when it comes to Italian wines. Rather that go right to an Italian wine whenever you're having pizza or pasta, save it for when you're actually in Rome. I've had plenty of good Italian red wines, but they never seem to stand out in a crowd.
This wine is no different. Drinkable - yes. Enjoyable - yes. Going back for more and more because I can't get enough - no.